The Spartans – Ian McMorrin

The Spartans (continued)

During 1961 the team had run on Centre Trace and I retained this for the first half of the year. Over the winter, however, l converted the team to Fan Trace. The dogs reacted well to the change and the increased freedom it carried, and the fights became less frequent.

The first journey of the year was a two week training run up Northeast Glacier during the latter part of April and early May. The trip was made with Ben Hodges and the Moomins and Ivor Morgan and the objects were to acquaint ourselves with the dogs and sledging methods On closer acquaintance, and well away from Base, varying personalities began to emerge; the undisputed sovereignty of Steve, Ruth’s jealousy and her possessive nature, the excitability of Iota and solidarity of Nu. Epsilon proved a reliable leader but had a frustrated preference for following tracks. Athos was paired with Steve, a position which he retained until the end of the year. The two became the greatest of friends. Athos regarded Steve with the greatest respect and at the same time imbibed some of the latter’s philosophical wisdom and placid good nature. Faerie proved a nervous and excitable handful, frequently calling forth greater reserves of patience than I possessed.

From the 8th of August until the 4th of September all the teams took part in a survey scheme in the Mount Wilcox area. Unfortunately the work was completed from a single static camp and the dogs had long periods of inactivity. In spite of temperatures which went as low as minus 30° F all the dogs except Nu put on weight.

The dogs were still running on Centre Trace at this stage and were paired as follows.

On the return trip to Base I noted that Iota showed signs of stiffness in the back legs, possibly the result of prolonged inactivity followed by a fast surface. Although I made frequent stops for him to rest he arrived at Base quite exhausted. At Base he appeared to make partial recovery though much of the stiffness remained.

September and October were spent in waiting for aircraft flights. The sea-ice was in good condition and with frequent nursing, the fitness of the team increased. It was at this period that I first began running the team on Fan. There was also an addition to the team in Angus, one of Dot’s litter born in March. As he was a long legged creature and very fast for a time I paired him with Nu moving Faerie back to run with Iota.

The running order for the Fan trace was ;–

Epsilon was considerably improved as a leader and no longer felt the magnetism of a set of tracks. I frequently used Ruth as an auxiliary leader. On the 21st October the Spartans and I were flown to Fossil Bluff for the Summer Survey Programme.

November and the early part of December were spent working with Brian Taylor on the Uranus Glacier. Once again the dogs did little load carrying and most of the work was with a light or empty sledge. At this time Iota’s back leg became more acute making it impossible for him to keep up with the team.

As I had received instructions to return to Adelaide to join the Larsen Shelf Ice party once the Biscoe arrived I handed the team over to Rodney Walker who was to continue working with Brian Taylor. The team remained in the Sound until the beginning of January when they were flown to Adelaide and I took them over again

While at Adelaide I obtained Faerie’s sister Brownie for inclusion in the team. Although she possessed some of the excitable nature of her sister, Brownie was a good and fast worker and I hoped that they would work as a pair.

Steve was getting on in years and arrangements were made to retire him to Deception. This was a timely move as was seen a few days after his arrival, when at Adelaide Epsilon usurped power and Steve was forced into subjection. I was very sad to see the grand old man cowed in this way and to save him further indignities I removed him from the team. To balance the loss of Steve I had the option of two of g being sent down from Deception, with these reinforcements I put Iota down.

Epsilon obviously felt uncertain of his newly acquired sovereignty and was continually asserting his Kingship over Angus and Athos. Until well into 1963 fights were frequent.

Several short trips were made on the Adelaide Piedmont in connection with the Navy’s Hydrographic Survey programme before the three Larsen teams, Giants, Vikings and Spartans were brought to Stonington at the end of February.

General Notes – 1963/64 Season

Once back at Base the two pups Oluf and Sven were added to the team. They were splendidly built dogs, only 7 months old and something of a handful. In nature they were diametrically opposed; Sven was an exuberant bouncy puppy while Oluf presented a shy, timid, almost cringing nature that was as difficult to explain as it was to deal with.

The first major journey was to lay a depot at Three slice Nunatak. I decided to leave the two pups behind for this trip. They were still unused to running and I felt that they would be more trouble than they were worth in crevassed areas.

The Giants and Spartans with Ron Tindall, Ralph Horne and myself left Base on April 6th intending to make a reconnaissance for the main depot party which would follow. The journey was a very hard one for the dogs with a combination of heavy loads, poor surfaces and low temperatures. Ron and I fed dogs on the basis of 1 block of Nutrican per day and an additional feed wherever possible. This was insufficient and they arrived back at Base lethargic and disinterested.

When the snow covering melts over sea-ice, it forms fresh water pools which often refreeze in turn to forma a hard, smooth and slippery surface. In this picture, these conditions can be seen to have completely fazed poor ‘Athos’, leader of the Spartans (Photo: Iam McMorrin)

Early on the journey Epsilon received a bad gash on his right leg which in the cold temperatures refused to heal and it remained troublesome for two months after his return.

Winter-running around base was seriously affected by the poor condition of the sea-ice but on July 21st the Spartans again left base for the Bourgeois Fjord area. Oluf and Sven were running with them and I slightly modified the Fan separating the dogs into two fans, one of five with one of four behind. I moved Brownie forward to run slightly behind Ruth. The two bitches up in front provided a buffer between Epsilon and his arch enemies, Angus and Athos. Ruth seemed to tolerate Brownie whereas she detested Faerie. The running order for the team then was:-

Apart from a two day run across Neny Fjord during August and odd sealing trips around Base the dogs did little until their departure for the East Coast on September 4th.

During the latter part of the winter Nu had suffered a gradual decline exhibiting the same stiffness as his brother had done a year previously. After a long fast running day in the Traffic Circle he collapsed and I was obliged to put him down. Details of the 1100 miles covering the Larsen Project are recorded elsewhere.

Five teams camped six miles from Stonington on Neny Fjord at the start of the 1,100 mile journey
(Photo: Ian McMorrin)

The running order for the team remained the same throughout the year except that I lengthened the fan by the addition of another pennant which moved the whole team forward and gave the rear dogs, Oluf and Sven a little more freedom. The dogs worked excellently and apart from odd cuts suffered no injuries. Loads for the journey varied considerably. When working with the single team and Elsan combination they seldom dropped below 600 lbs and were frequently in the 800 lbs region. For a short period, Churchill Depot to Cape Disappointment the team pulled 1300 lbs fairly comfortably but it was flat!

Six men with their team leaders on the Larsen Ice Shelf, 1964. Back L to R: Mike Flee (Geologist); Tony Marsh (Geologist); Peter Kennett (Geophysicist); Front Row L to R: Ian McMorrin with the Spartans leader ‘Epsilon’; Ben Hedges with the Moomins leader ‘Dot’; Ron Tindal with the Giants leader ‘Lusk’. (Photo: Ina McMorrin)

The team spent 17 weeks in the field on a basic ration of 1:1:2 (4 blocks in 3 days) with additional double feeds when depots were reached. They suffered no marked deterioration in condition. On average the bitches gained 6 1bs while the dogs lost 7.

ILLNESS AND INJURY

Beyond the usual bites, which are only to be expected, the dogs have remained surprisingly free from both illness and injury. Perhaps the most important ailment was that which led to the partial paralysis of both Iota and Nu. Little can be said of this though it seems to have been a family complaint as Zeta, of the Admirals, had to be destroyed for the same reason in Sept 1962. The ailment manifested itself in the form of a slight stiffness which became gradually worse until the dog could no longer keep up with the team. His gait became wobbly and erratic. In the case of Iota’s pain, it seems to have been absent though Nu, who collapsed after a long, fast day seemed to be in considerable pain. Both dogs had to be destroyed.

Epsilon’s wound has been referred to. Faerie received a bad tear wound on her left shoulder. The wound was closed promptly with 4 stitches and within a day all but one were removed and the wound healed well. Ruth had chronic constipation and Athos suffered from frequent nosebleeds.

Litters

Faerie gave birth to a litter of nine on 22nd of March 1963, the sire is unknown. Five were dead on arrival and as she did not appear to be looking after the pups and in view of her excitable nature the remaining four were destroyed.

TABLE of JOURNEYS AND MILEAGES

Northeast Glacier. 52 miles in 16 days.

Wilcox Survey. 75 miles in 27 days.

(Team – Epsilon, Ruth, Steve,Nu, Athos, Iota and Faerie)

King George VI Sound. 400 miles in 76 days.

(Same team plus Angus)

Adelaide Island. 120 miles in 24 days.

3 Slice Nunatak Depot. 210 mile in 345

(Team – Epsilon, Ruth, Athos, Nu, Angus, Brownie and Faerie.

Bourgeois Fjord. 116 miles in 21 days.

Larsen Shelf Ice. 860 miles in 115 days.

Team – The same plus Oluf and Sven. 9 dogs.

Total – 831 miles in 313 days

Individual Comments

EPSILON is an intelligent leader and currently King Dog. He responds well to commands though he is capable of exhibiting a good deal of will at times. At such time patience and persistence are the only counters. He takes his social position seriously and frequently feels the need to assert his power. At present his main enemy is Angus and in the event of a free for all these two should be separated first. Of particular value is his skill and intuition in crevassed areas. He very seldom requires a second command and very often selects his own line always crossing at right angles. With so many young dogs in the team he sometimes feels the pace and I have made a point of controlling the speed of the team to suit him.

RUTH – the gangsters ‘Moll’. Epsilon’s right hand girl. An extremely possessive lass who’s agility is a constant wonder. In spite of her age she can keep up with the team on any surface. Her jealousy and complete possessiveness over Epsilon is a source of much amusement. She cannot stand Faerie though tolerates Brownie. Like any ‘Moll’ she is spoilt and expects a pat with her Nutrican in the field. In fact she will call you back should you forget

ATHOS – Possibly the most consistent worker in the team and the least noticed. He is not by nature belligerent though he always joins in a fight. He and Angus make a fine winning pair. He has been tried as a leader and with further training should respond well.

ANGUS – A splendid young worker but inclined to be ‘Bolshie’. He is the object of much of Epsilons terrorism and more often than not comes off second best. He is full of bouncy life and is sometimes known as ‘McPuke’.

FAERIE – A fast, neurotic, nymphomaniac lass who can be very trying on the patience. As a worker she is excellent and pulls her heart out. He flirtations are a source of disgust to all in the team except Oluf and Sven.

BROWNIE – an endearing bitch, a splendid worker and far less demanding than her sister.

OLAF and SVEN – are the two power houses of the team. Although they are both young they fit into the team well and can be relied upon on all surfaces. Their natures are very different. Olaf is shy and timid while Sven is boisterous and full of life. The origin of Olaf’s timidity is difficult to understand but with careful treatment and only moderate use of the ‘thumper’ he has thawed out considerably. As a worker he is unequalled. Sven is much easier to manage and is also a good worker though he tends to shy at crevasses. With time this should disappear.

Various

The running trace system being used at present is the modified BGLE Fan. The layout is as follows:-

 The double fan system which I have used during 1963 avoids much of the tangling which occurs with the Single Fan. This is particularly so when young dogs are running at the back.

When moving as a following team I would remove the forward of their two 8 ft pennants.

When leading or travelling on fan surfaces the additional 8 feet increases the freedom and also the pleasure of the dogs. For securing the fan trace to the pennants I have found the large ‘Stubai’ karabiners effective.

When starting out in the morning I place the dogs onto the Fan in their running order, starting from the front. Once on they were given a short ‘schooling’ i.e. I made them lie down and keep still on pain of a clip from the ‘thumper’. I found that this greatly increased my control over the dogs.

b)         Night trace system. I have used a wire night trace for both years. I find it effective though it has its failings. It is slower than the systems used by both the Giants and the Moomins. The fractious elements in the team decided me against using the fan trace as the night trace. Perhaps with patience it could be done. The night trace order I used was:

Oluf Sven Faerie Athos Brownie Angus Ruth Epsilon.

c)         Commands. The commands I have used are:

When starting :“Right lads! WHEEEET”, followed by jubilant shouts to increase enthusiasm. i.e. “There we go, Pull away” etc.

To turn left “RRRRRRrrrrrrr”, rolling with the tongue.i.e. “RRRRrrrr Epsilon, good lad’

To turn Right, ” Auk! Auk!” twice. Short and sharp. i.e. “Auk Epsilon there we go”.

To stop “AHHHHHHNow” long and gentle and coinciding with a gentle pressure on the brake. i.e. “AHHHHNow… There we are lads”

In addition I have found it important to keep the dogs from becoming bored. At intervals throughout the day I would shout in a high falsetto. This caused the dogs to increase their pace and for a short period they would gallop enjoying the new spurt..

Little further need be said except good luck and good sledging.

Ian McMorrin – Stonington, GA – 1962 & 1963


A Journey to Detaille Island – Base W – Rick Airey and Geoff Somers

A Journey From Rothera to Detaille Island – Base W – Ric Airey and Geoff Somers – 1979

Some interesting extracts about problems involved in sledging in the area around Rothera and the value of having the refuge hut at Detaille Point.

Ric and Geoff had one team, the Picts; Yvonne, Fergy and Malky, Jason and Dingle, Helix and Boot, Lomond and Lil, with one sledge. Yvonne had been trained by Geoff and he was very proud of her.

Detaille Island, Base W (Photo: Ric Airey)

July 24th. Very fast run to Blaiklock Island in strong Northerly winds easing towards evening.

July 25th. Half way up Heim Glacier stopped by very high winds and after 4 hours delay in a pup tent waiting for better weather we had to camp on hard glare ice in 50 knots of wind and no snow to drift over the dogs.

July 30th. (after 4 days lie up in conditions that involved remaining fully dressed) Left dogs and sledge to find route through very difficult area. Working with 150 yards of rope and a deadman we negotiated the bad area with the dogs very quiet and well behaved somehow understanding the problems.

July 31st. Snow so deep and soft that the sides of the trench made by the lead dogs kept on falling in on poor Lil at the rear

Detaille Island Base (Photo: Ric Airey)

August 4th. Rain and deep soggy snow on 3 year old sea ice with bergy bits very well covered as well as large tabular bergs completely rounded off with drifts on all sides.

August 5th. Reached Orford Cliffs Refuge which had not been visited for 13 years.

August 7th to 21st. Day of very high winds reaching 100 knots Very interesting dis-interring much food, almost all useable and we enjoyed warmth and security in winds that would have been very uncomfortable if we had been camping.

August 25th. Finally reached Blaiklock after difficult 10 miles in complete whiteout.

Heading home over the Arrowsmith Peninsula (Photo: Ric Airey)

August 27th. Left Blaiklock but forced to camp on NW corner of Pinero Island. We were joined by sledge Party Papa who arrived, (on motorised transport !) an hour after us.

August 28th. Up at 0530 and away at 0700, hoping not to wake Sledge Papa. ‘shushing’ and whispering to the dogs. The machines only caught us up a mile or so from Rothera. The dogs behaved superbly on arrival driving to the sledge store to unload and then down to the spans without a gremlin and with a very critical audience.

Great reward for Geoff who had worked so hard on Yvonne.


Ric Airey, WOM South Georgia 1975, WOM Rothera 1976, GA Rothera 1979


Of War and Peace (The Dog Fight) (continued)

Of War and Peace (The Dog Fight) (continued)

The sledge has already been loaded and the centre trace picketed at the front. Then each dog separately is brought from the span, harnessed and dipped into the appropriate side trace. The bitches and least troublesome dogs will come first but they can now get at each other and the arena for a free for all tag match is being set. As teeth begin to bare and growls turn into actions, speed is of the essence. Finally the bad boys arrive and the immediate future is balanced on a knife edge. Either, to a crescendo of snarls and growls, the front picket is removed and on the command of ‘Huit Boys’ the journey will begin. Or, more likely, just at the critical moment Frankie has sunk his teeth into Johnnie’s foot and a free for all has been called. The rules of a dog fight are few. For sure if you see a leg sticking out of a fur pile you grab it. Likewise, for a tail or an ear irrespective of who it belongs to. Petty grievances have now been overtaken by the joy of the fight. Opting out is not in the husky character and something must be done quickly if serious injury is to be avoided. In all but the husky context our method of breaking up a dog fight may be felt to be cruel. But the operation was carried out with love and with the sole objective of minimising the resultant injury. I have yet to see the bonker used in anger.

The dog bonker comprised a length of thick rope with the end spliced back on itself to provide a handle. The rule for breaking up a dog fight was much the same as the rule for starting one. Any back or flank that was accessible should be bonked. This lack of discrimination may sound unfair but it must be remembered that there is no single aggressor in this free for all and that only seconds may be the dividing Iine between superficial and serious injury. The vocal side of this peace making was also very important and such expressions as”Break it up you bastards” would hold a lot of weight.

Sooner or later the consensus of “We’ve had enough of this” would prevail and several seconds opportune for making a departure would elapse before a grudge became too strong again. Fortunately life did not remain so precarious and many sledging days may pass without incident. Then one day some occasions such as a sledge turning over would trigger them of and they would be at each others throats again.

But the greater wars rage between men. The 1958-59 season saw six of us living closely in the confines of the old base hut at Stonington which was completely covered by ice and drift. From these confines we appreciated the friendship of the Argentinian base a few miles to the north on the Debenham Islands. During these days of Antarctic rivalry the occupation by these ‘Argies’ was not politically acceptable on the Graham Land Peninsular and we were required to hand over protest notes. Likewise they would hand a similar note to us. On a typical get together the two parties would exchange protests with mock seriousness, pretend to read, tear up and the party would begin. Such friendship was only rivalled in pleasure by the large sides of beef hanging in their freezer. Then the 1960-61 season saw four of us living closely in one room of the iced up Stonington hut. The resulting pressures and stress of such close living proximity are obvious. Likewise, for the sledge journey when two men may lie up in a tent for a week or more during a blizzard. On some occasions silly little things become enormous issues.

I can remember clearly to this day how one of my tent companions used to clean out his pemmican plate with his finger after each meal and how completely unreasonably this would make me squirm. There again some of the finest friendships were moulded in this close proximity. The saving grace for this stress of close living without privacy was undoubtedly the dogs. You would emerge from the hut into the Antarctic winter twilight to a welcoming chorus of barking and howling. Perhaps they are expecting to be fed? No, they were fed seal several hours ago. This general excitement and span pulling is just for you alone and already the oppressions of base life are beginning to lift.

Alpha is the first dog you encountered. He greets you by stretching up his 100 Ibs to place his paws on your chest. You stoop down only a litte for a hug and the inevitable face wash. Then it’s Moose’s turn and as he is wearing “blubber wellies” you discourage the legs up approach. Instead you are lashed by the wagging tail and your leather gloves are all but consumed by a mouth so practised at chewing. Also given half a chance in the general excitement Moose will try to pee on your mukluks. Frankie is next and torn between greetings and keeping his eye on Bebe on the next span who is on heat. He decides that Bebe is not going to go far so you get together in a close hug to discuss the merits of a remaining bit of seal blubber.

Buster has no such problems with sex after an operation some time in the past. Instead, he can concentrate his full attention to food and weighs the heaviest at 108 Ibs. The bitches are like a different breed with a full quota of feminine qualities. Ruth is the lightest at 64 Ibs and almost breaks in two in attempting the biggest of tail wags. According to the 1960-61 dog report for the Spartans “Ruth is extremely feminine and outrageously flirtatious.” Her blandishments may cause dissension amongst the front three dogs and her habit of coming back to flirt with Moose and Steve must be discouraged.” Bebe was more subtle but no less welcoming. I got on my knees in a clinch of a salivary tongue and little whines escalating in reaction to the wagging rear.

Bessie, my lead dog, was very special to me and highly intelligent. We discuss some of the silly things that were troubling me with base life and her concrete of this moment answers were a great help. Occasionally the dogs for no apparent reason would chorus a long primordial howl befitting of any Arctic tundra. One returned to the fog of the hut refreshed and invigorated and realising more deeply that without those husky friends life in this wilderness would be so much poorer.


Peter Forster – Surveyor/BC – Stonington 1957-61


Returning to the Work Area in the northern Fjords

Header Photo: Bad Weather on the Forel Glacier (Photo: Dave Matthews)

 Returning to the Work Area in the northern Fjords

Avalanche Risk on the Forel Glacier (Photo: Dave Matthews)

After three weeks on base to prepare for a long season, build sledges etc, Jim and I set off  for Horseshoe again, Jim with his team the “Ladies” and myself with the “Terrors”, and by now on slightly thicker sea ice. Jim’s plan (to avoid the risk of getting caught by unreliable sea ice on such a tricky journey, where only the inhospitable Camp Point afforded a possible refuge between Horseshoe and Stonington), was to recce an escape route from northern Marguerite Bay (Blind Bay) via the Plateau. This meant laying depots up the Forel and Finsterwalder Glaciers from Blind Bay which proved far from straightforward and was very time consuming due partly to poor weather (including a record 16 day lie-up) and avalanche dangers, but the Forel Glacier was eventually “conquered” and the latter depot was eventually flown in, much later, to the upper Finsterwalder by the one remaining serviceable Otter.

With all the to-ing and fro-ing of building depots and so on, Jim’s great skiing skills were a big bonus and made me feel thoroughly inadequate, especially on the old wooden Fids skis. He could cheerfully ski down a steep slope with a food box on one shoulder and no sticks. That really pissed me off and I resolved to learn to do better.


Camp below north face of Mt Verne; The route was more or less
up the left hand skyline (Photo: Dave Matthews)

The plans worked out well and we were able to progress to doing field work on and around Pourquoi Pas Island by later in September. This included an opportunity to make a First Ascent of Mount Verne, the prominent peak in front of the old Base Y, which Jim led with casual skill. Sadly a first ascent was  wrongly credited, in the Damien Gildea book, to ship-based tourists some years later, when in fact it should have read “Jim Steen and Dave Matthews on Wednesday 3rd November 1965, via the North Ridge”

Horseshoe Island and Base from the Summit of Mt. Verne (Photo: Dave Matthews)

Eventually it came time to retreat from the sea ice; we had already had one scare when we both broke through unexpectedly thin ice in the Narrows between Pourquoi Pas and Blaiklock Islands, presumably where under ice currents had eroded it to almost nothing. Also a survey party had become marooned on Detaille Island (Base W) when all the ice blew out of Lallemand Fjord, and there was some discussion of possibly picking them up, but to get them  to nearby Prospect Point (Base J) from Detaille Island would have been a challenge and the idea was dropped.

We managed the ascent of the Forel and Finsterwalder Glaciers up the route we had already scouted. With adequate supplies, Jim decided that we could then afford to sledge north from the head of the Finsterwalder along the Plateau towards where Wally Herbert had reached his furthest south on the Plateau in 1956-57.

Jim in Action on Slessor Peak, collecting a rock sample for me
(Photo: Dave Matthews)

We reached Slessor Peak which we climbed and collected volcanic rock samples, enjoying stupendous views out to the west, but by that time, a Detaille Island rescue was no longer a plan. The “Shack” did it. In spite of poor and intermittent radio contact, we gathered that the “Biscoe” had reached Stonington early for the annual relief, so decided that it was time for us to return south although I think Jim would have been quite happy to carry on up to the Catwalk and beyond. He insisted that we carry all our surplus supplies back south with us rather than waste them by dumping them, so it was heavy going but we were by now fit and used to adjusting loads between the two sledges to get maximum efficiency along the undulating plateau. Jim had to put down one of his old dogs who could no longer keep up and it was the only time I ever saw him in tears as he returned to the tent with a ‘smoking gun’.

We had both developed a tremendous bond with our dogs after 6 months of sledging.

At the Plateau Edge, we added our surplus supplies to the depot there before carrying on down Northeast Glacier under the threat of deteriorating weather, with Jim leading the way towards the fearsome Sodabread route so well known to Plateau sledge parties from Stonington.

Dave Matthews – Geologist – Stonington – 1965 & 1966

Read on in “Our Return to Stonington – Without Claire” – Stonington – 1965