Header Photo – Captain Stuart Lawrence Conning the Bransfield (Photo: Jack Tolson)
Farewell “Adders” – Welcome Rothera – Stuart Lawrence
Marguerite Bay 1977 – “Bransfield’s Activities during February and March, taken from the Journal of Captain Stuart Lawrence, recording an”AMAZING FEAT” by all those on board.
British Admiralty Charts 3570, Brabant Island to Adelaide Island and 3571, Lavoisier Island to Alexander Island.
Where to Begin?
Continuing…
“Well it is almost certainly true that for most of us “Mariners”, a Tour of Marguerite Bay starts after we leave the Argentine Islands, hence the Grandidier Channel, Crystal Sound, Hanusse Bay, Lallemand Fjord, Laubeuf Fjord and indeed Adelaide Island were all considered to be part of Marguerite Bay, hence my journal commences on:
9th February the day we departed from Argentine Islands Southbound. That morning we dispatched the Erebus and a Gemini with a memorial plaque and a cross erecting party to Rasmussen Point whilst the Terror completed the cargo work to the Base. On return of the Erebus we proceeded to Rasmussen Point where in the early afternoon the Dedication Party was landed led by Bill Sloman with the companions from the Base and members of the crew of the Bransfield and a short service was held for those persons from Argentine Islands Base who had been lost whilst climbing on Mount Peary at the end of the previous Season, the first fatal accident in the Survey for 10 years. On completion we returned the Argentine Islands Fids to their Base and set sail for Adelaide Island Base.
10th February we arrived to anchor in the Adelaide Island Base anchorage, having encountered light pack ice off the entrance to the Matha Strait, at lunchtime where we anchored despite there being a strong N’ly breeze. Cargo was worked until supper time, when worsening weather conditions brought cargo operations to a halt. However we were able to remain at anchor overnight.
11th February we were loading drums of avtur/avgas from 0800 to 2000 to be transferred to Rothera.
12th February we departed the anchorage at 0600 arriving off Rothera South Bay at 0848 where we maintained position with one engine where cargo work was commenced and continued to 1730 when an unsuccessful attempt to “Mediterranean moor” the vessel off the Point was made, but with a freshening N’ly breeze and a troublesome iceberg this had to be abandoned at 2142, hence we proceeded to Jenny Island anchorage where anchorage was obtained at 2330.
13th February we are “storm bound” at anchor of Jenny Island in a NE’ly gale.
14th February we depart the anchorage at 0700 arriving off Rothera Point at 0842, where we secure to “Honey Bucket Islet” by a head line from which we lie in a gentle N’ly breeze until 1545 when breeze dies, and we no longer hold our position, so we resume maintaining position on one engine for the remainder of the day’s cargo operations until at 2054 when we proceed to Jenny Island anchorage where we obtain anchorage at 2206.
15th February we departed Jenny anchorage at 0736 arriving off Rothera at 0848 where it was necessary to attempt to clear the South Bay of small icebergs and brash ice. At 1045 we obtained a tentative anchorage off South Bay in a light WNW’ly breeze from where we worked cargo with launch and scow including the transferred hut sections. We returned to Jenny Island anchorage for the night at 2112.
16th February we departed the anchorage at 0736 arriving off Rothera where we moored with the anchor and a headline to the ice cliff to work cargo by launch and scow. With the wind remaining very light we ran a stern line to Honey Bucket Islet and thus moored on completion of cargo operations we spent the night.
17th February with an early start of cargo operations which included discharge of the transferred hut sections by launch and scow and drummed fuel by launch and flubber until we were blown out in an increasing breeze at 1624 so we returned to Jenny Island anchorage where at 1825 we moored to two anchors in what had now become a NE’ly gale.
18th February we departed Jenny anchorage at 0736 arriving off Rothera at 0848 where we continued cargo discharge operations deploying both launches and the scow and flubber, with the ship holding position on one engine, until 1830 when we returned to Jenny anchorage arriving at 2015.
19th February we departed Jenny anchorage at 0724 arriving off Adelaide Island Base where we uplifted transfer cargo for Rothera until 1030 when we proceeded to Rothera arriving to find South Bay infested by icebergs and brash ice at 1248. However by maintaining position on one engine we were able to discharge 3 generators and an IH tractor before departing for Jenny anchorage where we arrived to anchor for the night at 1910.
20th February we departed Jenny anchorage at 0736 arriving off Rothera where we moored with one anchor and a headline to Honey Bucket Islaet at 1010. On this day we were engaged in discharging drummed petrol and drummed avtur from Adelaide Island Base until completion when we returned to Jenny anchorage at 2130.
21st February we departed the anchorage at 1218 arriving off South Bay, Rothera Point, at 1400 only to find the bay blocked by ice and unworkable so we proceeded round to North Bay where we arrived to obtain anchorage at 1442. By sounding around fro a Gemini we found that the anchorage was downright dangerous due to shoals and rocks in the Bay and anyway there was no way a launch and scow could land cargo on the beach as all the approaches were too shallow. At 1848 we departed to the safe anchorage in Lystad Bay, Horseshoe Island, to R/V with the RRS John Biscoe, and we arrived to obtain anchorage at 2130.
22nd February the John Biscoe was secure alongside at 0630 and commenced transferring cargo, fuel and water.
23rd February a Horseshoe Island Hut depot landed by launch and flubber. The John Biscoe departed at 1045 but we remained at anchor for the remainder of the day and night in deteriorating weather conditions.
24th February we departed Lystad Bay at 0636 arriving off Rothera Point at 0900 when an attempt was made to moor to Honey Bucket Islet, but the mooring strop broke so we spent the day maintaining position on one engine. With all the remaining Rothera Base cargo, including that picked up from the John Biscoe landed we returned to Lystad Bay for the night arriving to obtain anchorage at 2104.
25th February we departed Lystad Bay at 0818 arriving to anchor off Stonington Island Base at at 1156 where we remained for the night. Shore parties were landed to check the security of the buildings as the Base had been closed on 23rd February 1975.
26th February we departed Stonington Island out into Neny Fjord where between 0930 and 1210 we supported geological landings by Professor D. Hawkes and his assistant, from the University of Aston, Birmingham as part of an investigation into the metalliferous mineralization on the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula, on Red Rock Ridge. We then proceeded to the Debenham Islands where we obtained anchorage off the southern point of June Island. An inspection Team was landed to the Argentine Base on Brian Island by launch. On completion we departed arriving off the Rocca Islands to obtain anchorage for the night to the southwest of Ginger Island at 1940.
27th February we remain at anchor off the Rocca Islands all day due to foul weather and a reported 7 foot swell at the Adelaide Island Base jetty.
28th February we departed the Rocca Island anchorage arriving to anchor off the Adelaide Island Base at 0845 where we continued to load cargo for transfer to Rothera Base all day.
1st March we continued to load the last of the transfer cargo for Rothera Base util 1600 when Adelaide Island Base was declared CLOSED. (Bye Bye Black Adders!!) However we remained at the Adelaide Island Base anchorage for the night.
2nd March we departed Adelaide Island Base anchorage at 0642 arriving off Rothera Point at 0912 where we maintained station on one engine whilst the transfer cargo from the “OLD” Adelaide Island Base was landed until 1842 when we proceeded to the Jenny anchorage where we arrived to anchor for the night at 2010.
3rd March we departed Jenny anchorage at 0742 arriving off Rothera South Bay at 0900 where we maintained a station with one engine where we resumed discharge of the remaining cargo transferred from the OLD Adelaide Island Base. However at 1045 we were honoured with a helicopter visit from the Argentine Icebreaker “General San Martin” carrying the Admiral in Charge of Argentine Combined Affairs and his Chief of Staff, and the Captain of the San Martin. They stayed for an hour visiting both the Bransfield and Rothera Station. By 1518 we had completed discharging all the Rothera cargo so we proceeded north up the Laubeuf Fjord for the start of our sealing expedition for dog food. There being no pack found in the Hinks and Barlas Channels on which seal may haul out we returned to Stonehouse Bay where we moored to a large piece of fast ice for the night.
4th March we departed Stonehouse Bay at 0900 arriving off Rothera Point at 1048 where we remained for an hour before returning to Stonehouse Bay where we landed our sealing party. We then go in search of seals in the vicinity of Wyatt Island. Whilst the main object of our “cruise” in the Laubeuf Fjord we were also carrying out bathymetric survey work, in the process of which we discovered several unknown shoals and surveyed the channel to the east of Wyatt Island, now known as “Lawrence Channel.” Our poor total of seals culled was 38 so at 1915 we secured for the night back in the Stonehouse Bay field ice.
5th March we continued our bathymetric survey work and our search for seals in the Laubeuf, Bigourdan and Bourgeois Fjords, ending up at anchor for the night in Lystad Bay.
6th March we departed Lystad Bay at 0642 proceeding to the east end of the Jones Ice Shelf (no longer existing, now the Jones Channel) but here being no seals we circumnavigated Blaiklock Island to the west side of the Jones Ice Shelf where we maintained station by station with the bow against the shelf from where sealing operation were resumed, culling 43 before returning to moor to both anchors in Lystad Bay for the night at 1945 in a NE’ly gale.
7th March we remain at anchor in Lystad Bay, starting one engine for an hour to maintain the vessel steady as HMS Endurance comes alongside for a transfer of fuel and fresh water exercise and to transfer personnel.
8th March. HMS Endurance departs at 0615 and we depart at 0648 on a circumnavigation of Marguerite Bay to survey the trench at the northern end of the King George VI Sound. We pass 2 miles north of the Terra Firma Islands, then 4 miles north of the Puffball Islands. Significant shoal water was found in this vicinity necessitating the need to launch the Erebus and for her to proceed ahead of us with her echo sounder running to advise us as to whether it was safe to proceed. However we had to cancel that safe procedure after a while as we encountered 7/8th pack ice and so had to recover the launch. As darkness falls we stop for the night to drift, but keeping one engine available should we drift into shallow water. Sadly no landing on the island groups to the south of us was possible due to the amount of pack ice in their vicinity. One of the charted islands in 68 50.5S 68 29W was not sighted.
9th March on daybreak at 0548 we were underway attempting to make passage west across the trench to the north of King George VI Sound when at 0648 rocks were sighted ahead in 68 50.4S 69 24.5W, now called Fly Spot Rocks. An investigation was carried out. Then we proceeded NNW and NW following the pack ice edge until we once again came across shoaling water and the Erebus was launched until darkness made further progress unsafe.
10th March. At this juncture all hope of surveying the trench was abandoned because of the shoal water, the density of the pack ice and the short hours of daylight during which we were drifting in the wrong direction. Hence a course was set to pass clear of Surprise Rock and into the western end of the Woodfield Channel and then to return to Rothera. However a N’ly gale made it more prudent to return to Lystad Bay to obtain anchorage for the night which we achieved at 1545. Thus ending a very dismal and highly unsuccessful “Tour” of Marguerite Bay. Definitely my opinion is to wait until the Bay is well frozen over and then lead by a good dog team I am sure it will make a most interesting and exhilarating survey.
11th March we departed Lystad Bay at 0742 arriving off Rothera Point at 1012 where we once again maintained station off South Bay on one engine whilst the seals were discharged deploying the launch Terror to tow them to the beach where tractors towed them to the seal site. On completion we proceeded to Jenny Island anchorage where we obtained anchorage at 1954.
12th March we departed the anchorage at 0736 arriving off Rothera at 0854 where in addition to loading outward cargo we attempted to moor the vessel in South Bay but we were unsuccessful because the stern line kept getting caught up on the cornice of the ice cliff. (neither of which remain). All cargo operations being suspended for the night we were proceeding towards Jenny Island anchorage when a W’ly gale made it more prudent to proceed to Lystad Bay where we obtained anchorage at 2054 in a W’ly strong breeze that had been a W’ly gale just outside the anchorage.
13th March we departed Lystad Bay at 0636 arriving off Rothera South Bay at 0854 where today it became possible to moor the vessel at least for the morning but by the afternoon the wind had increased to 20 knots and we had to maintain station on one engine whilst the loading of outward cargo continued until 1818 when we proceeded to Jenny Island anchorage where we obtained anchorage at 1954.
14th March we departed the anchorage at 0736 arriving off South Bay Rothera at 0854 and eventually managing to successfully moor the vessel across South Bay by 1120 such that bulk refuelling of the base was possible. However as a result of many complications with the valves etc, the refuelling took a long time to start. In the meantime we were able to load the returning vehicles for repair at Cambridge. Fortunately the weather and our mooring arrangement held until at about 0230 on 15th March, with 180 tonnes passed ashore, bulk refuelling was complete. However it was found that the vehicles could not tow a full pipe up the beach, so our Hatz Pump had to be rigged on board in order that we could empty the pipe full back into our tanks.
15th March, whilst all the bulk refuelling shenanigans were proceeding, we embarked the homeward bound Fids, had a party for the Winterers, swore in the Base Commander as the Magistrate, secured the ship for sea, so that by the time all the fuelling procedures were completed, we unmoored the ship and after much blowing of whistles and letting off of flares, we departed at 1424 proceeding north through the Laubeuf Fjord, the Barlas Channel, The Gullet and the Tickle Channel into Hanusse Bay, which was very nearly blocked by vast fields of heavy pack ice and an uncountable number of icebergs, bergy bits and growlers, thence seaward through the Buchanan Channel and the Matha Strait to sea towards the Argentine Islands. The overnight passage to the west of the Biscoe Islands was made at slow speed in relatively clear conditions but with a strong NE’ly breeze, and snow flurries.
16th March, clear of Marguerite Bay. “at last”, we arrived at the Argentine Islands via the Buchanan Passage at first light, finally obtaining anchorage off the Drum Rock at 1200 hours. We then discharged transfer cargo from the Old Adelaide Island Base and loaded homeward cargo of reports and scientific records plus personal baggage for the returning Fids. We also landed about 14 tonnes of bulk fuel with the fuel flubbers and our Hatz Pump.
17th March, as if being drawn by the pull of the magnetic power of Marguerite Bay we made a daylight, having departed at 0600, run South through the Grandidier Passage to Prospect Point to uplift two Fids who had been manning the ionospherics equipment since mid-February, during the “interregnum” between Adelaide and Rothera Bases, to return them to their Argentine Island Base. With a good passage , apart from one newly found shoal, we returned to obtain anchorage at 1835.
Where to end?
18th March we finally departed Argentine Islands Northbound “at last”, at 0706, thus as I have explained, ending our 1977 “Mariners” Tour of Marguerite Bay – almost six weeks – and the closing of “Black Adders”.
With many thanks to all those involved without whom non of it would have been possible
As the words of the song relate……“Things ain’t what they used to be”